Wednesday, 13 March 2019

Peru!

Let's be honest - it's easy to enjoy experiences when you have a return ticket in the hand! Wouldn't be such a novelty perhaps if it were a one-way!! It was arranged for me to come to Peru for 3 months, as I don't have a companion in Argentina.   What's more I have come to one of the most "adventurous" (to put it diplomatically) fields, the Peruvian Amazon.  This area is very close to the ecuator, and the Ecuadorian border.  It takes in jungle, and mountains.  We have a bach in the small city of Bagua Grande, a comfortable two-bedroom apartment which belongs to our friends.  We can leave our stuff here, and make forays into the surrounding areas to visit our scattered friends.  (You must imagine the following photos with 36oC temps!).

View of the city of Bagua Grande looking over the rice fields.  The mountains in the back-drop are where we make our trips into to visit our friends.

Bagua is just over 400 metres above sea level, in a valley amongst high mountains.  The climate is hot and sticky, lots of rice grown as well as other fruits and vegetables.  Chicken is the main source of meat, tough free-range chooks!  

More of Bagua
There is one church here in this city.  The workers first started visiting this area of the Amazon in the mid-80s.  Derek Clark and then Trevor Loechel and companions did a lot of the pioneering, Norman Nash later too.  In those days there were absolutely no roads, and they walked hours, sometimes days to reach these places.  They would come because someone had a relative or acquaintance somewhere, and that then led to others coming in touch.  No cell phones in those days!  The people that now live here in Bagua have all originated from somewhere else, little outlying towns in the wop-wops, and have latterly come to live in the city.
Scenery around Bagua, rice fields.



With Roder and Gina Mego, the elder of the church in Bagua Grande.  This is the "moto", the most common form of transport in the city!  Three can fit in to the seat, and luggage on the back.  They are used a lot as taxis, and are cheap as chips.  These don't exist in Argentina, we just walk everywhere that the bus doesn't take us, but these things make us lazy.  They took us out for a drive one Sunday afternoon, so that I could see the countryside.
This is how your Whittaker's Peanut Slab starts out!!  Cacao beans drying in the sun.

The moto in the front has a tub of washing on the back...

Stopping at a dairy for a drink of "Inca Kola" - one of the greatest rivals in Peru to Coke.  It's not bad actually, tastes like the old soda stream flavour Creaming Soda
More rice
The Mego family - Roder and Gina and their two sons and daughter, and daughter-in-law.  Lady in white t-shirt is an employee.  They came from the town of Perlamayo (more on that later), a young married couple and their first chile (in red t-shirt) just born.  The Catholic tradition says to baptise the baby, but Roder was very uncomfortable with that, and wanted to know in himself if that was correct.  He started investigating and could find nowhere in the Bible that it says that.  Right at that time, the workers were beginning to visit Perlamayo because of some relative of one of the native brothers, and through the first man that professed, Antonio Delgado, Roder met them, and recognised truth.  He told us recently that when he made his choice, his desire was that all his children should one day go in the work.  (At this stage none of the three have shown a need to serve God.  Very respectful, and sometimes go to meetings, the girl more than the boys).  But, he said, I realise that if that had happened, I would have just become proud of it, and criticised everyone whose children go astray.  They own the little bach we use, and all the friends here do so much for us!  I love our time with this couple.  
The streets of Bagua Grande
View one from the bach
View two - from my bedroom window
The street we go down from the bach into the town
Palmira picking her way through the mud after heavy rain in the night



This is the nearby city of Jaen, ("Hy-EN) where I arrived to from Lima by plane (saved me an 18-hour bus trip).  There is a pair of brothers here, but it's only an hour by car from Bagua.
The two little sisters who met me off the plane! Very cute.

Palmira buying fruit
My co Palmira Rojas is a local, from the mountain area of Olmos.  She and her family heard the gospel when the first workers went up into that area, which was so lawless that not even the police would venture in there.  The people of Olmos are known in Peru for being very volatile and hot-headed!  All the men would go around armed, just in case!  When the workers went, and the Catholics got up against them because people started to profess, the police said well those foreigners are doing what you have never been able to do...the people were changing!  Palmira also has a sister in the work, Celmira.  They are tough people!  
Open-air shoe-repairers!
Roder draining a coconut
This is how Roder and his wife earn their living... they sell what they call "menestra" in the local market.  It's a mixture of beans and pulses, which the people will buy for their meal.  It entails lighting the fire at night, then they get up at 4 am to start cooking it all.  They have some industrial-sized pressure cookers, and use the wood-fire as well as some gas rings.  They sell most of it every day.  A lot of people come into town from the mountains, to do their business and stay all day, so they go and buy that to eat. 
Getting everything ready the night before.

Right, I shall publish this...to be continued!


Sunday, 17 February 2019

Last of the Falklands

This is Mt Tumbledown, about 400 metres above sea level! (The highest "mountain" is only 700m).  It was a fairly short hike, so we did it one very, very windy day.  It has good views of Stanley, and was one of the battle sites in the "conflict" of 1982.  There is an abandoned Argentine army field kitchen up there, and a memorial on the summit to the British soldiers who died there.  Everywhere you go on the Islands, there are memorials to soldiers (British) who died.  About 250 British died, and 800-900 Argentines.  The Argentines were very poorly prepared, young boys off the streets from up in the north of the country where it's very hot, taken down to that cold climate in April-May, and were not properly fed or clothed by their own country.  They acknowledge today that the British took better care of them than their own authorities.  The people tell of the Argentine soldiers coming into town begging for food!
           The field kitchen all rusty, but with stainless steel cooking pots

Lunch stop out of the wind
Looking back to Stanley
This is what the peat looks like
Peat embankments.  On the East Island peat is no longer used for heating (they use kerosene to fuel their radiators), but it was used in times past, and is still used on more remote parts.
View of Stanley and the harbour

The surrounding countryside, we had to battle the wind to not get blown over the cliff!
Going up the path toward the field kitchen

Wendy held up by the wind


View from the top of Mt Tumbledown.  War memorial cross

Another memorial on same mountain in different spot to different men.

We went to Cindy's house for lunch one day.  She lives on another part of the East Island, called Fitzroy.  It is actually a sheep station, which has sold off some of the houses and plots of land.

Silverlocks, Wendy, Dave and Alana, me, Cindy
View from her kitchen window
View from other side of house



On our second to last day we decided to attempt the Gypsy Cove walk again to see the Magellanic penguins, that live in burrows.  The day started out really calm but did the wind get up and it was COLD!! Beautiful though...here are some pics of the cloudy skies on the way...




We couldn't get right down onto the beach due to the landmines
This grass is native to the Falklands but has been decimated due to sheep farming.  They are replanting trying to get it back.  Called Tussac grass.

There were burrows all along the walkway, here's a little fella waiting for his parents

He got back in with his brother when an idiot tourist came yahooing along and scared him.

Saw this in a supermarket!

The last hurrah...coffee and carrot cake complete with marzipan carrot at Malvina House day before we left.